Globe and Mail
November 14, 2007

A high-maintenance piglet yields succulent pork

by DAVID LEE

Just about this time last year, I was visited at Splendido by two gentlemen, Alexandre Aubin and Carl Rousseau, from St-Canut Farm in the Laurentians.

They were here to spread the word about a unique product called "porcelait," (it literally means milk-piglet - a combination of porcelet and lait - although it loses something in the translation).

I tasted a sample of the pork, raised solely on a diet of warm milk and all-natural supplements, and was astounded by the quality and delicacy of its flavour and texture.

Fast forward to this past Thanksgiving at my in-laws', where I decided my contribution to the meal would be a slow-roasted St-Canut piglet. My brother-in-law, Steven O'Brien, a gourmand of Irish descent (and as such, a big fan of hearty, well-made comfort food), joined me on the trip out to see Alex and Carl.

I was curious to learn why they'd adopted a completely new and more challenging method of raising pigs, and to see how this translated to the plate.

Steven and I arrived at the farm to find Carl's sons, Olivier and Émile, climbing on a pile of sacks containing the secret formula of vitamin and mineral supplement that are fed to the pigs. To me, this was clear evidence that familial involvement was important to these farmers.

I personally believe in the importance of educating younger generations about smart, healthful and sustainable food choices - it is our responsibility as chefs (and parents) to teach children about the connection between field and table.

The air at the farm was sweet with the scent of the powder (not the usual smell one expects on a pig farm!). Always the inquisitive chef, I decided to have a little taste for myself, and found the supplement tasted as it smelled; sweet and delicious.

The piglets are fed this every two hours for the duration of their lives. Initially, Carl strapped a feeding apparatus to his back and acted as surrogate mother to the piglets - they've since upgraded to an automated system.

The resulting meat is succulent, incredibly tender and lacking in the sometimes overwhelming "porky" taste one might associate with industrially raised pigs.

Flavour is of the utmost importance to me as a chef. When you start with a high-quality product, it comes through on the plate. The pork from St-Canut is a Canadian product, raised with diligence and care by people, not machines. It is important for us as consumers to eat and to buy locally, supporting small, family-run farms such as St-Canut.

I've lost 50 pounds in the past year, becoming more aware of what I put into my own body, and I feel better knowing I'm not consuming hormone-pumped, factory-raised animals.

The piglets raised at St-Canut are proof of the relationship between an animal's diet, the care with which it is raised and the resulting great flavour once prepared and eaten.

But don't take my word for it; try some and see for yourself. (In the Toronto area, St-Canut porcelait is available at Cumbrae Farms, Pusateri's and Olliffe.)

SLOW ROASTED ST-CANUT MILK-FED PIGLET WITH ROASTED COOKSTOWN ROOT VEGETABLES

What you need

A 4-pound St-Canut pork loin (you can substitute the shoulder, belly or leg)

Freshly ground black pepper

Coarse salt

2 cloves garlic, smashed

2 sprigs thyme

Olive oil

1 pound Cookstown red carrots, medium-sized, peeled

1 pound Cookstown Jerusalem artichokes, medium-sized, peeled

24 pearl onions, peeled

Olive oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

What you do

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Remove pork loin from the fridge and allow to come to room temperature. Season the piglet liberally with salt and pepper, and rub smashed garlic and thyme on all sides. Brush with olive oil.

Place pork in a roasting pan (preferably on a trivet or rack), and put in the oven, positioned on the middle rack. Cook until a thermometer inserted into the centre reads 145 F (about 1½ hours). Let pork rest for 15 minutes, covered, in a warm place.

Toss the vegetables with a touch of olive oil to coat, then season with course salt. Place in a roasting pan in an even layer, and put pan in the oven.

Turn vegetables periodically to ensure even cooking. Vegetables are finished when a fork will pierce them easily (you can cook the vegetables in the same pan as the pork, and you should add your vegetables when the pork is half cooked).

Serves 6 to 8

Chef David Lee is co-owner and executive chef at Toronto's Splendido.

Beppi's wine matches

Roast pork is compatible with white or red wine. Fruitier styles are best. A great red match is Beaujolais, particularly the pricier Beaujolais-Villages or the top-end crus such as Moulin-à-Vent, Chiroubles or Morgon. Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($19.99 in B.C., $15.95 in Ontario) is a great choice. Tomorrow being the official release date for Beaujolais Nouveau, the youthful and relatively unpolished version, you may want to give it a whirl. Examples: Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau or Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau. Among whites, look especially for chardonnay or viognier. Beppi Crosariol