Toronto Life
January 2009

Restaurant Guide: Editorial Review

Splendido ★★★★

This is fine dining at its most accomplished. In spite of the outmoded decor, the room is welcoming and elegant, with warm lighting. Though the owners (Yannick Bigourdan and chef David Lee) are currently busy with their other venture, Nota Bene, no beat is missed. Impeccable service shines as a preliminary champagne cart is wheeled between the well-spaced tables and delicate canapés are delivered. The eight-course tasting menu ($140, plus $98 for expertly matched wines) starts with tiny tastes of outstanding house charcuterie and continues with tuna tartare that’s anything but cliché with its satin-textured fish, pungent nori purée, diced pickled cucumber and crunchy tempura bits. Molecular techniques turn breakfast—egg, bacon, black pudding and beans on toast—into a miniaturist’s fantasy. A seasonal dessert of pumpkin soufflé and vanilla ice cream completes the experience. The wine list continues to evolve, balancing global nobility with interesting local discoveries; pairing suggestions can be inspired. Mains $46–$55.